Grillzebo: A sheltered area similar to a gazebo but designed for grilling. A gazebo with grill is the perfect place to cook the perfect steak, rain or shine, and also makes a great outdoor bar.
Introduction :
You can entertain and feed your guests without having to store your skewers. If you’re looking for outdoor bar ideas or DIY gazebo plans, this “grillzebo” is perfect. It’s large enough to accommodate most standard grills, but small enough to fit on your existing patio. Customize your own grillzebo with lighting, storage for grill accessories, wine glass shelves or built-in coolers.
Materials Required
- 1-1/2” metal roof/pole barn screws (250-pack)
- 1-1/4” 12d galvanized joist hanger nails (1-lb. box)
- 1/2” x 3” concrete anchor (10-pack)
- 14” x 10’ 6” ridge cap
- 1×3 x 8’ pine stakes (2)
- 1×4 x 8’ cedar (3)
- 1×6 x 12’ cedar deck boards (10)
- 2-in. 18-gauge galvanized brad nails
- 2” exterior-grade trim-head screws (100-pack) (2)
- 2×4 x 12’ (6)
- 2×4 x 12’ pine bracing (2)
- 2×4 x 8’ pine bracing and roofing stop (8)
- 3” exterior-grade wood screws (1-lb. box)
- 42” x 78” roofing panels (6)
- 4×4 adjustable post bases (8)
- 4×4 x 12’ cedar (2)
- 4×4 x 8’ cedar (23)
- 6” heavy-duty wood/structural screws (50-pack) (2)
- 7/8” x 10’ 6” J-channel (4)
- Construction adhesive
How to make your own grillzebo
With the help of a friend, you can build it in a weekend. All building materials are available at home centers. We built our gazebo out of western red cedar because it is rot and insect resistant and looks great. You can save about $400 by building your own pressure-treated wood barbecue gazebo. Cedar will require some maintenance over the years, but the metal roof is maintenance free. This DIY gazebo project is designed to last a lifetime…a lifetime of grilling fun.
Step 1: Getting started
We poured a prestained slab that was 8 x 14 ft. That leaves about a foot of space on the two open ends, and plenty of room for the chairs on the others. Learn how to pour a concrete slab first.
Order the roofing components for this project at the lumber desk in your home center. You’ll be able to order the roof panels exactly the length you need: 78 in.
It’s much easier to finish all the lumber with a good-quality outdoor stain before you assemble the grillzebo. After the stain has dried, set aside the three most twisted and bowed 8-ft. 4x4s. Save them to cut up for the smaller truss webs and angle braces (D and E). We made most of the cuts with a miter saw for this grill pergola.
Step 2: Lay out the post locations
Cut the bottom truss chords (A) to size, and line them up next to each other on a pair of sawhorses. Take a couple of 12-ft. 2x4s and line them up on the horses as well. The 2x4s will be used to build a temporary template to help locate the post bases. Measure over 28-1/2 in. from each end of the bottom chord, and mark a pencil line using a framing square as a guide (Photo 1). Measure over from that line, and mark three more lines all spaced 3-1/2 in. apart.
Step 3: Cut and assemble the ends
Cut the posts to size (B); line them up with the marks on the bottom side of the truss chord and fasten them together . Completely build one end, including the truss (the next two steps), before pulling the assembly out of the way to make room for the other end.
Step 4: Cut the top chords
The slope of the roof is 4/12, meaning the angle rises 4 in. for every 12 in. it runs horizontally. To mark the proper angle on the top chord (C), line up the outside edge of your framing square at the 4-in. and 12-in. marks .
Cutting this long angle is a little tricky, so make this cut first. That way if you make a mistake, you can move over a bit and try again . Once all the cuts are done, line up all the top chords and make sure that every angle was cut the same.
Cut the top angle with a miter saw set to a 20-degree angle. Once they’re all cut to length, lay them next to each other and mark the purlin (F) locations on the top side of the top chords. There should be a gap about 20-5/8 in. between all the purlins.
Step 5: Build the trusses
Fasten the top chords to the bottom chord with two 6-in. screws. Cut the webbing boards (D) a bit long with a 20-degree angle on one end. Hold the webbing boards to the center of the bottom chord and mark a cutting line on the other end using the top chord as a guide . Fasten them with one 6-in. screw in each end.
Step 6: Lay out the post locations and install the bases
Cut two 2x4s (pine lumber) at 72 in. Line them up with the outside post lines you made on the two 2x4s you marked along with the top chords. Fasten them together with 3-in. wood screws. The inside diameter of the frame should be 72 in. x 87 in. Square and center the frame, and mark the post locations .
Metal bases like these not only keep the posts secure but also keep up off the concrete so the wood doesn’t wick up water and prematurely rot. Drill the holes for the bases and slide them into position. Tap the anchors into the holes and tighten the nuts .
Step 7: Raise and brace the ends
Raise one end and slip the posts into the bases. Temporarily brace the end upright with 2x4s run from the posts to stakes in the ground. Fasten the posts to the bases with joist hanger screws. After the posts are secured to the bases, plumb all the posts both ways with a 4-ft. level, adjusting the temporary braces to keep them from moving .
Once one end is secure, raise the other end and keep it upright and plumb by running 2x4s from the bottom chord of the first end over to the bottom chord of the second. Fasten two 2x4s straight across and a third at an angle.
Step 8: Install the angle braces
Cut the angle braces (E) to size, with 45-degree angles on each side. Make sure the angles sit flush on the post and bottom chord. Fasten the braces on each end with two 3-in. exterior-grade screws .
Step 9: Cut and install the purlins
Ripping down metal roofing is no fun, so we cut the purlins (F) to fit the roofing panels. The panels we used were 3 ft. wide, but we increased the overlaps, so the total width of the three panels was as close to 8 ft. as possible (92 in. in our case), and then we cut the purlins to that size .
The top and bottom purlins line up with the top and bottom edge of the top chord, and the center two purlins will line up with the marks you made earlier. Install the top and bottom purlins first and check to see that all four overhangs are the same .
Step 10: Install the roofing
Attach a scrap 2×4 with a couple screws to the outside edge of the bottom purlin. Fasten another 2×4 to the first except hold it up an inch . This will create a stop that you can slide your roof panels down to, resulting in a perfect 1-1/2-in. overhang.
Install all the J-channels before the roofing panels. Line them up flush with the outside edge of the purlins. Cut them to length with a snips so they meet at the peak and butt into the temporary stop. Secure the J-channels with 1-1/2-in. pole barn screws.
Slide the first panel into the J-channel and down to the 2×4 stop. Fasten it with 1-1/2-in. pole barn screws. Follow the screw pattern recommended by the manufacturer. Slide the next two panels into place before fastening them down so you know they fit nicely in the J-channel on the other end.
Let the ridge cap overhang 4 in. at each end. Center the cap and fasten it down with pole barn screws into the top purlins. Space the screws according to your manufacturer’s recommendation. Trim back each side of the ridge to the J-channel.
Step 11: Trim the bottom of the posts
The metal post bases will prevent the 1×4 trim boards from fitting snugly against the posts. Before cutting the trim boards (G), run the full-length cedar 1x4s vertically through a table saw a couple times until about 3/16 in. of material has been removed.
Fasten the trim boards to the posts with an 18-gauge trim gun fitted with 2-in. galvanized brad nails . Strengthen the joint by applying construction adhesive before nailing them together. Secure them with brad nails at the top of the boards and through the miters. Install them up away from the ground to keep them dry.
Step 12: Assemble the tabletop and shelf frames
Cut the table frame ends and center braces to size (H and J). Use a square to mark a line on both posts up 41 in. from the slab. That will be the top of the frame. Install the ends 1 in. away from the outside edge of the inside post, and secure them with 3-in. exterior wood screws, two in each post. Measure and cut the table frame sides to size (K). Install the board with screws angled into the post. This keeps them from being visible after the top is installed.
Measure the distance between the posts and cut the cedar 2×4 that will serve as the skirt nailer (L). Center it on the outside post, which leaves 1 in. on each side. This will make the skirt boards flush with the outside edge of the posts.
Install the center braces (J) 20 in. in from each post. Secure them by angling two screws into the side boards (so they’re not visible) and one down into the skirt nailer .
Cut the shelf frame ends and centers to size (M and N). Use a square to mark a line on both posts up 15 in. from the slab. That will be the top of the shelf frame. Install the end pieces so they overlap onto each post 1 in. Cut the shelf side boards (P). Secure them to the end boards with screws. No need to angle these screws because the outside screws will be covered with the skirt boards, and the inside ones are too low to notice. Install the shelf center boards, 20 in. in from both posts.
Step 2: Lay out the post locations
Cut the bottom truss chords (A) to size, and line them up next to each other on a pair of sawhorses. Take a couple of 12-ft. 2x4s and line them up on the horses as well. The 2x4s will be used to build a temporary template to help locate the post bases. Measure over 28-1/2 in. from each end of the bottom chord, and mark a pencil line using a framing square as a guide (Photo 1). Measure over from that line, and mark three more lines all spaced 3-1/2 in. apart.
Step 3: Cut and assemble the ends
Cut the posts to size (B); line them up with the marks on the bottom side of the truss chord and fasten them together (Photo 2). Completely build one end, including the truss (the next two steps), before pulling the assembly out of the way to make room for the other end.
Step 4: Cut the top chords
The slope of the roof is 4/12, meaning the angle rises 4 in. for every 12 in. it runs horizontally. To mark the proper angle on the top chord (C), line up the outside edge of your framing square at the 4-in. and 12-in. marks (Photo 3).
Cutting this long angle is a little tricky, so make this cut first. That way if you make a mistake, you can move over a bit and try again (Photo 4). Once all the cuts are done, line up all the top chords and make sure that every angle was cut the same.
Cut the top angle with a miter saw set to a 20-degree angle. Once they’re all cut to length, lay them next to each other and mark the purlin (F) locations on the top side of the top chords. There should be a gap about 20-5/8 in. between all the purlins.
Step 5: Build the trusses
Fasten the top chords to the bottom chord with two 6-in. screws. Cut the webbing boards (D) a bit long with a 20-degree angle on one end. Hold the webbing boards to the center of the bottom chord and mark a cutting line on the other end using the top chord as a guide (Photo 5). Fasten them with one 6-in. screw in each end.
Step 6: Lay out the post locations and install the bases
Cut two 2x4s (pine lumber) at 72 in. Line them up with the outside post lines you made on the two 2x4s you marked along with the top chords. Fasten them together with 3-in. wood screws. The inside diameter of the frame should be 72 in. x 87 in. Square and center the frame, and mark the post locations (Photo 6).
Metal bases like these not only keep the posts secure but also keep up off the concrete so the wood doesn’t wick up water and prematurely rot. Drill the holes for the bases and slide them into position. Tap the anchors into the holes and tighten the nuts (Photo 7).
Step 7: Raise and brace the ends
Raise one end and slip the posts into the bases. Temporarily brace the end upright with 2x4s run from the posts to stakes in the ground. Fasten the posts to the bases with joist hanger screws. After the posts are secured to the bases, plumb all the posts both ways with a 4-ft. level, adjusting the temporary braces to keep them from moving (Photo 8).
Once one end is secure, raise the other end and keep it upright and plumb by running 2x4s from the bottom chord of the first end over to the bottom chord of the second. Fasten two 2x4s straight across and a third at an angle.
Step 8: Install the angle braces
Cut the angle braces (E) to size, with 45-degree angles on each side. Make sure the angles sit flush on the post and bottom chord. Fasten the braces on each end with two 3-in. exterior-grade screws (Photo 9).
Step 9: Cut and install the purlins
Ripping down metal roofing is no fun, so we cut the purlins (F) to fit the roofing panels. The panels we used were 3 ft. wide, but we increased the overlaps, so the total width of the three panels was as close to 8 ft. as possible (92 in. in our case), and then we cut the purlins to that size (Photo 10).
The top and bottom purlins line up with the top and bottom edge of the top chord, and the center two purlins will line up with the marks you made earlier. Install the top and bottom purlins first and check to see that all four overhangs are the same (Photo 11).
Step 10: Install the roofing
Attach a scrap 2×4 with a couple screws to the outside edge of the bottom purlin. Fasten another 2×4 to the first except hold it up an inch (Photo 12). This will create a stop that you can slide your roof panels down to, resulting in a perfect 1-1/2-in. overhang.
Install all the J-channels before the roofing panels. Line them up flush with the outside edge of the purlins. Cut them to length with a snips so they meet at the peak and butt into the temporary stop. Secure the J-channels with 1-1/2-in. pole barn screws.
Slide the first panel into the J-channel and down to the 2×4 stop. Fasten it with 1-1/2-in. pole barn screws. Follow the screw pattern recommended by the manufacturer. Slide the next two panels into place before fastening them down so you know they fit nicely in the J-channel on the other end.
Let the ridge cap overhang 4 in. at each end. Center the cap and fasten it down with pole barn screws into the top purlins. Space the screws according to your manufacturer’s recommendation. Trim back each side of the ridge to the J-channel.
Step 11: Trim the bottom of the posts
The metal post bases will prevent the 1×4 trim boards from fitting snugly against the posts. Before cutting the trim boards (G), run the full-length cedar 1x4s vertically through a table saw a couple times until about 3/16 in. of material has been removed.
Fasten the trim boards to the posts with an 18-gauge trim gun fitted with 2-in. galvanized brad nails (Photo 13). Strengthen the joint by applying construction adhesive before nailing them together. Secure them with brad nails at the top of the boards and through the miters. Install them up away from the ground to keep them dry.
Step 12: Assemble the tabletop and shelf frames
Cut the table frame ends and center braces to size (H and J). Use a square to mark a line on both posts up 41 in. from the slab. That will be the top of the frame. Install the ends 1 in. away from the outside edge of the inside post, and secure them with 3-in. exterior wood screws, two in each post. Measure and cut the table frame sides to size (K). Install the board with screws angled into the post. This keeps them from being visible after the top is installed.
Measure the distance between the posts and cut the cedar 2×4 that will serve as the skirt nailer (L). Center it on the outside post, which leaves 1 in. on each side. This will make the skirt boards flush with the outside edge of the posts.
Install the center braces (J) 20 in. in from each post. Secure them by angling two screws into the side boards (so they’re not visible) and one down into the skirt nailer .
Cut the shelf frame ends and centers to size (M and N). Use a square to mark a line on both posts up 15 in. from the slab. That will be the top of the shelf frame. Install the end pieces so they overlap onto each post 1 in. Cut the shelf side boards (P). Secure them to the end boards with screws. No need to angle these screws because the outside screws will be covered with the skirt boards, and the inside ones are too low to notice. Install the shelf center boards, 20 in. in from both posts.
Step 13: Install the tabletop, shelf and skirt boards
Cut the deck boards for the table top (Q) to fit between the posts at each end. Secure them with two 2-in. exterior-grade trim-head screws through each deck board. Keep the screws about 1 in. from the edges of the deck boards. Start with the table-top board closest to the inside, and line it up with the edge of the inside posts (Photo 15). There’s no need for a gap between the boards.
Measure and cut the shelf boards (R) to length. Rip two of them down to 4 in. Install the cut end flush with the outside edges of the shelf frame so they’re hidden by the skirt board.
Cut the skirt boards (S) to length. Center the first one between the posts and install it with two trim-head screws to the skirt nailer and shelf frame. Work your way in each direction, and trim down the last skirt boards to fit flush with the posts.
Remove all the temporary braces and touch up all the cut ends of the boards with stain. All that’s left is to slide your grill into place and invite the neighbors over for a party under your barbecue gazebo.
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